Spanish weekends, Sunday lunch and the evening stroll (paseo)

Key rules

• Sunday lunch: It is a custom, not an obligation, and you only need to go if invited.
• Sunday shopping: Opening rules are set by each region, so many shops are closed and Madrid is the most open.
• Always open: Bars, restaurants, cinemas and pharmacies on duty stay open on Sundays.
• Closed: Banks, most public offices and most markets are closed on Sundays.

The short version

Spanish weekends, and Sundays above all, are social and slow. Many people gather for a long family lunch, have a vermouth beforehand and go for a stroll in the evening. Many shops are shut on Sundays, so plan ahead.

Sunday family lunch

Sunday lunch is a widespread custom, not a rule. Many families, especially outside big cities and with grandparents, meet for a long lunch at home or in a restaurant. Paella or a roast is common.

You have no obligation to join unless you are invited. If you are invited, say yes if you can. It is a warm way to meet people. Expect it to run long. The pull to attend is stronger in smaller towns and in regions such as Valencia and Andalusia. It is looser among young adults in big cities.

Vermouth hour

El vermut, or la hora del vermut, is a drink before lunch, mostly at weekends and especially on Sundays, from about 12:00 to 14:30. You get vermouth over ice with an orange slice and an olive. It comes with small snacks (aperitivos) such as olives, crisps and anchovies. It is an easy way to join in without committing to a whole meal.

The evening paseo

El paseo is an unhurried walk along a main street, promenade or park. It usually happens in the early evening, from about 18:00 to 21:00 and later in summer. People also take it after Sunday lunch. Families, couples and older people all do it. It often ends with a drink or an ice cream. It is most visible at weekends and in warm months.

What is closed on Sundays

No national law bans Sunday trading. Each region decides how many Sundays and holidays shops may open. In most regions, many shops, supermarkets and shopping centres are closed on Sundays or open only on a few Sundays a year.

Some places often stay open:

• small family shops, bakeries and convenience stores
• petrol stations
• shops in tourist zones

Madrid has full liberalisation, and parts of Andalusia and some other regions allow wider opening. Check the hours of your region and of each shop.

Bars, restaurants, cinemas, hospitals and emergency services stay open, as do pharmacies on duty. Banks and most public offices are closed, and most markets are too.

How to plan your weekend

• Buy groceries on Saturday, or before, unless you live in a place with wider opening.
• Book a table if you want a Sunday restaurant lunch. Places fill up.
• Keep the afternoon free for a stroll.

The questions below cover common doubts.

Frequently asked questions

Do I have to join a Sunday family lunch if I am invited?

No, a Sunday family lunch is a custom, not an obligation, and you are not required to go. Within families the expectation to turn up is real, so a polite yes is welcome when a Spanish friend or partner invites you. It is a little less strict among young city adults.

Can I buy groceries on a Sunday in Spain?

Often yes, but only in some places, because each region sets how many Sundays shops may open. Small family shops, bakeries, convenience stores, petrol stations and shops in tourist zones are the usual exceptions, and Madrid allows wide opening. Buy what you need on Saturday if you live elsewhere.

What stays open on Sundays besides shops?

Bars, restaurants, cinemas, hospitals, emergency services and pharmacies on duty stay open on Sundays. Banks and most public offices are closed, and so are most markets. Do any paperwork or bank errands before the weekend.

What time is the vermouth hour on a Sunday?

The vermouth hour (el vermut) is usually between 12:00 and 14:30, before lunch. Order vermouth on the rocks with an orange slice and an olive, plus small snacks such as olives, chips or anchovies. The evening stroll (paseo) comes later, from about 18:00 to 21:00, and also after Sunday lunch.