Regional dishes to try and how to avoid tourist traps

Key rules

• Order local: Order the dishes your own region is known for, not a generic national menu.
• Spanish hours: Lunch is 13:30 to 16:00 and dinner starts from 20:30 to 21:00.
• Paella: Paella is traditionally a lunch dish, so be wary of it offered all day at a low price.
• Tourist-trap signals: Touts, photo menus and menus in many languages usually point to a place aimed at visitors.

Eat the region you live in

Spain does not have one cuisine. Each region has its own dishes, and the best move is to order what the place is known for. Menus vary within each region too, so treat these lists as a starting point.

• Galicia: pulpo a feira (octopus), empanada gallega, caldo gallego, percebes (goose barnacles), seafood with albariño wine, pimientos de Padrón and tarta de Santiago.
• Basque Country: pintxos, bacalao al pil-pil, merluza en salsa verde, marmitako, txuleta (grilled beef), idiazabal cheese and gilda.
• Catalonia: pa amb tomàquet, escudella i carn d'olla, calçots with romesco, fideuà, crema catalana, botifarra amb mongetes and suquet de peix.
• Valencia: paella valenciana, arroz al horno, arroz a banda, fideuà, all i pebre, and horchata with fartons.
• Andalusia: gazpacho, salmorejo, pescaíto frito, jamón ibérico, rabo de toro, espinacas con garbanzos, flamenquín and tortilla de camarones.
• Canary Islands: papas arrugadas with mojo, gofio, ropa vieja, sancocho canario, potaje de berros, conejo en salmorejo and quesos canarios.

Signs of a tourist trap

Be wary when you see several of these together:

• Staff calling people in from the street.
• Large photo menus.
• Menus in many languages.
• Paella offered all day at a low price, or looking frozen.
• Sangria jugs advertised on the street.
• A prime spot beside a major sight or on a main square.
• No Spanish customers at Spanish mealtimes.

Signs of a good local place

• A handwritten or chalkboard menú del día, the fixed-price weekday lunch.
• Mostly Spanish customers.
• A short menu in Spanish.
• Seasonal dishes.
• Napkins on the floor in some bars. It is a sign the bar is busy, not dirty.

Eat at Spanish hours

Local kitchens work to Spanish mealtimes. Lunch runs from 13:30 to 16:00. Dinner starts at 20:30 to 21:00. A restaurant packed at 19:00 is probably serving visitors.

Paella is traditionally a lunch dish. Order it at lunchtime, ideally in the region where it comes from, and be suspicious of it at dinner.

Find your own places

Walk a few streets away from the sights. Check the menu board before you sit down. Ask neighbours and colleagues where they eat. Once you find a good bar, go back, because regulars are often treated better and told what is best that day. The FAQ below covers meal times, menus and rice dishes.

Frequently asked questions

When is the best time to eat paella in Spain?

Paella is traditionally a lunch dish, so order it at lunch, usually between 13:30 and 16:00. A place offering paella all day at a low price, or one that looks frozen, is a warning sign.

What hours do local restaurants in Spain serve meals?

Local places serve lunch from 13:30 to 16:00 and dinner from 20:30 or 21:00. An empty restaurant with no Spanish customers at those times is often aimed at tourists.

What does a menu tell you about a local restaurant?

A short menu in Spanish, with a handwritten or chalkboard menú del día (fixed-price weekday lunch), usually means a local place. Seasonal dishes are a good sign too. Large photo menus and menus in many languages point to a tourist trap.

Which rice dishes should I try in Valencia?

In Valencia, try paella valenciana, arroz al horno, arroz a banda or fideuà (a noodle dish). For a drink and sweet, order horchata with fartons.