Summer in Spain: August exodus, San Juan night and late evenings

Key rules

• San Juan fires: Light bonfires only where your town hall allows them, usually on designated beaches.
• 24 June: It is not a national holiday, only a regional or local one in some places.
• Verbenas: Entry is usually free in public spaces, and you pay for food and drink.
• August: Expect some city shops to close and coastal towns to be crowded.

Summer runs on a later clock

Life moves to the evening in summer. People eat dinner late, sit on terraces and stay out well after dark. Squares and streets fill up at night, and many events start when you might expect them to end. Plan your errands and chores for the morning, and expect to be out late if you join in.

August: cities empty, the coast fills

Many locals take their holidays in August. Expect some city neighbourhoods to feel quiet, and some small shops and family-run places to close for a few weeks. Coastal and holiday towns do the opposite and get busy. Check opening times before you travel across town for a specific shop or service. Book any August trips early.

Verbenas: open-air street parties

A verbena is an open-air popular party. It usually runs at night in a square, street or fairground, and is tied to a saint's day or local festival. They peak from June to September, around San Juan, San Pedro and the August patron festivals. They are strongest in towns and villages.

• What happens: a live orchestra or DJ plays pop and dance music. There are bars and food stalls with tapas, grilled food and drinks. Some have fairground rides.
• How late: dancing often runs until 2-4 am or later. If you live next to the square, expect noise.
• Cost: entry is usually free in public spaces, and you pay for food and drink. Some larger or private verbenas charge entry or run through peñas, associations or festival committees.
• How to find them: look for town hall posters, the town hall website and social media, and the local festival programme.

San Juan night, 23-24 June

The Noche de San Juan is celebrated with bonfires around midnight, often on beaches. People jump over the flames, burn old things and write wishes on paper to burn. Some wash their faces in the sea at midnight and jump seven waves. Barbecues and picnics are common. In Catalonia, people eat coca de Sant Joan with cava and set off fireworks.

It matters most in Catalonia, Valencia (Alicante's Hogueras run 20-24 June), the Balearics, Galicia, Asturias, Cantabria and the Canary Islands. Soria and Málaga also celebrate it, Málaga on its beaches.

24 June is a regional holiday in Catalonia and Galicia, and a local holiday in many towns. It is not a national holiday. Check your region's work calendar.

Fires and fireworks: local rules

There is no single national rule. Town halls and regional governments set the rules, and they change by year.

• Most coastal councils allow bonfires only on designated beaches. Some require a permit, or run an organised event with fire brigade, Civil Protection and Red Cross cover.
• Private bonfires elsewhere are usually banned. So are fires in forest areas during high fire-risk periods.
• Councils commonly ban glass, fuel, and burning furniture, tyres or treated wood.
• Fireworks are limited to authorised users, with age limits and category rules.
• Fines run from tens of euros to a few thousand. Forest-fire fines can be much higher.
• Some councils ban bonfires entirely in some years because of fire risk, weather or crowding.

Before 23 June, read your town hall's San Juan notice. It tells you which beaches are open, what you can bring and any ban in force. Some beaches also restrict access. The questions below cover lighting your own fire, fireworks, the holiday and verbena costs.

Frequently asked questions

Can I light my own bonfire on the beach on San Juan night?

No, in most coastal towns you cannot light your own bonfire, because fires are usually allowed only on designated beaches or at council-run events. Some towns need a prior permit, and some ban bonfires entirely in a year with high fire risk. Glass, fuel and burning furniture or treated wood are commonly banned, and fines can reach several hundred euros or more.

Can I set off fireworks myself on San Juan night?

Usually not, because councils commonly limit fireworks to authorised users, and age limits and category rules apply nationally. Large shows need a licensed pyrotechnician and official authorisation. If you want fireworks, watch the council-organised display instead.

Is 24 June a day off work after San Juan night?

Only in some places, because 24 June is not a national holiday. It is a regional holiday in Catalonia and Galicia, and a local holiday in many towns. Ask your employer or town hall whether it applies where you work.

Do I have to pay to go to a verbena?

Usually no, because most verbenas in public squares and streets are free to enter, and you pay only for food and drink. Some larger or private ones, run by peñas (local social clubs) or associations, charge entry. Look for town hall posters and festival programmes to find out.