Holiday Spain versus everyday SpainArticle 6 of 9 · 5 min read
Late dinners, siesta closures and August shutdowns, can you live with them?
Spain runs later and in more pieces than much of Europe: late meals, midday shop breaks, closed Sundays and a quiet August. This page helps you decide whether that rhythm suits you or your household before you move.
Key rules
- Working week: The legal maximum is 40 hours on annual average, and the 37.5-hour proposal was defeated in September 2025.
- Sundays: Most shops close on Sunday, and each region sets its own opening rules.
- Afternoon meals: Many kitchens close between roughly 16:00 and 20:00, so plan your main meal at lunch.
- August: Avoid scheduling paperwork in August, when many gestorías and lawyers close and courts are suspended.
The short version
Expect late meals, shops that close in the middle of the day, most shops shut on Sundays, and a slow August. None of it is hard to live with once you plan around it. Big cities and tourist areas soften most of it. Small towns and the south feel it more.
Meals: lunch is big, dinner is late
Lunch (comida) is the main meal, usually 14:00 to 16:00. On weekdays many restaurants offer a cheap fixed-price menú del día from about 13:00 or 13:30 to 16:00.
Dinner (cena) is lighter and starts around 21:00 to 22:30. Kitchens often open from about 20:00 to 20:30 and run until 23:00 or midnight. It is later in summer and in the south, and somewhat earlier in the north.
Many kitchens close between roughly 16:00 and 20:00. Outside tourist areas, a proper meal in the afternoon is hard to find. A small snack (merienda) around 17:00 to 18:00 fills the gap. Tourist areas and chains serve food at earlier hours.
If you have young children or eat early, plan to eat at home, or use the menú del día as your main meal.
Shops: midday breaks and Sundays
Small independent shops usually open about 9:30 to 10:00 until 13:30 to 14:00. They close for a midday break and reopen around 17:00 until 20:00 or 20:30. This split schedule is common in the south and in small towns.
Department stores, shopping centres and supermarket chains stay open all day, usually 10:00 to 21:00 or 22:00, Monday to Saturday. Do your errands in the morning or at a big store if your day is tight.
Most shops close on Sunday. Each region sets its own trading rules. Madrid and the Valencia region have liberalised hours. Catalonia and the Basque Country are more restricted. Shops in tourist zones, small shops under a set size, convenience stores, bakeries, petrol stations and duty pharmacies (farmacias de guardia) may open. Many places also close on regional and local holidays, so check your region's trading calendar. Buy what you need for Sunday on Saturday.
Work: split days and shorter days
A split workday has a long break of 1.5 to 3 hours and ends around 18:00 to 20:00. It is still common in retail, hospitality, small businesses and some private offices. A continuous day (jornada intensiva) is widespread in public administration and large firms, and in summer or on Fridays.
The legal maximum working week is 40 hours on annual average. The proposal to cut it to 37.5 hours was defeated in September 2025. Some collective agreements set shorter hours. Employers must record daily working time. Ask any employer which schedule the job really has, since it changes your evenings and childcare.
August: slow, not stopped
Many small businesses, independent shops, family restaurants in cities, gestorías, lawyers' offices and some clinics close for two to four weeks, mostly in the second half of August. Look for a "cerrado por vacaciones" sign. Closing dates vary by business and region.
Public offices stay open with fewer staff, shorter hours or fewer appointments, so permits, notary and tax matters can be slower. Court procedures are generally suspended. Public health care keeps running with fewer planned procedures. Coastal and tourist towns are at their busiest and fully open, while big cities like Madrid and Barcelona are quieter and schools are closed. Avoid scheduling paperwork in August where you can. The timeline below shows what to book before then.
Will it suit you?
- It suits you if you like long lunches, late evenings and a social life on terraces from 20:00 to 23:00.
- It is harder if you need early dinners, Sunday shopping, or fast paperwork in summer.
- Your region and town matter. Big cities and tourist areas are the easiest. Small inland towns follow the traditional rhythm most closely.
Timeline and deadlines
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Book gestoría, lawyer or clinic appointments you need: Before the second half of August, when many close for 2 to 4 weeks
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Finish permit, notary and tax matters: Before August where possible, as public offices run with reduced staff and fewer appointments
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Expect court procedures to be suspended: Throughout August, though administrative deadlines still run
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Check small shops and family restaurants for a closed-for-holidays sign: In the second half of August
Frequently asked questions
Can I get a proper meal in the afternoon in Spain?
Often not outside tourist areas, because many kitchens close between roughly 16:00 and 20:00. If you are hungry mid-afternoon, look for a snack (merienda) around 17:00 to 18:00, or eat in a tourist area or at a chain, where food is served at earlier hours.
Can I open a shop on Sunday or find one open?
Most shops are closed on Sundays, but exceptions include shops in tourist zones, small shops under a set area, convenience stores, bakeries, petrol stations and pharmacies on duty. Madrid and the Valencia region have more liberal hours, while Catalonia and the Basque Country are more restricted.
Is the working week in Spain going to get shorter?
Not for now: the legal maximum stays at 40 hours a week on annual average, because the proposed cut to 37.5 hours was defeated in September 2025. Your collective agreement may set shorter hours, and continuous workdays are common in public administration, large firms and in summer.
Should I avoid scheduling paperwork in August?
Yes, avoid August where you can, because public offices run with reduced staff and fewer appointments, and gestorías and lawyers' offices often close for 2 to 4 weeks. Court procedures are generally suspended in August, but administrative deadlines still run.
More in Holiday Spain versus everyday Spain
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- What Spanish holiday coasts are like outside summer
- Spain is many places, so which one are you picturing?
- Can you live with Spanish bureaucracy, as a setup cost or permanently?
- The daily cost of living in your second language
- Does Spain's sunny image survive heat, drought and floods?
- Is it easy to make friends in Spain as a foreigner?
- Are Spaniards still welcoming to foreigners, given tourism protests?
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