Gijón lives on its seafront. The Paseo del Muro runs along San Lorenzo beach; people jog, skate, cycle, surf and walk dogs at all hours, in all weathers. At the headland, a huge concrete sculpture by Eduardo Chillida, the Elogio del Horizonte, looks out over the sea. Cimavilla has small bars and old houses, and the Plaza Mayor leads to the harbour.
Cider is the local drink and a social ritual: sidra natural is poured from a height into a wide glass, drunk in a gulp and shared in a sidrería, with a plate of cheese, chorizo or grilled meat. Fabada, fresh hake and rice pudding with a burnt sugar top fill out the table. The cider houses are all over the city, and the nearby Oviedo has its own cider street at Calle Gascona.
Beyond the beach are the botanical garden, the Parque de Isabel la Católica and the Universidad Laboral, a vast monumental building on the edge of town. Somió, on the east side, is the green residential district with large houses. La Calzada, to the west, is the working-class quarter by the old port, plainer and cheaper.
In summer, the Semana Negra festival fills the port with crime-fiction writers, concerts and food stalls, and the cider festival follows in August. Football fans follow Sporting de Gijón at El Molinón with a loyalty that crosses generations. People are relaxed, direct and warm, and Asturian turns up in names, songs and the odd word.