Barcelona is a city of neighbourhoods, each with its own square, market and festival. Gràcia feels like a village inside the city, with plazas full of tables and a summer street-decoration festival that closes whole streets. The Eixample, with its grid of chamfered blocks and modernist buildings, is where people live, shop and work. El Born and the Gothic Quarter are medieval lanes with galleries, bars and tourists. Poblenou, the former factory district by the sea, is where many tech companies, studios and beach cafés have settled.
Sant Antoni, Poble-sec and Sants are where people who live here go out: bars in the market square, vermouth on a Sunday, a plate of croquetas and a glass of wine. Barceloneta has the seafront fish restaurants, the sand and a lot of sunburnt visitors. The Raval is multicultural, scruffy and creative. Sarrià and Pedralbes, up the hill, are leafy and wealthy.
The pace is brisk but not hurried. Dinner starts a little earlier than in Madrid, nights are long and people spend a lot of time outside. They run, cycle and skate along the seafront, and take the weekend to hike or sail. Dress is casual with an eye for design: the city has a long tradition in fashion, architecture and graphic design, and it shows in the shops and the signs.
Catalan and Spanish are both everywhere, and English is common in the international community. Food leans to the sea and the market: seafood rice, fideuà, anchovies, cured sausage, pa amb tomàquet, desserts such as crema catalana. Big dates are Sant Jordi in April, when the streets fill with roses and books, the midsummer bonfires of Sant Joan, and the La Mercè festival in September, with its human towers and fire-runs.